Cushnie et Ochs Spring 2016 Collection #NYFW

The Spring 2016 collection by Cushnie et Ochs was well received BUT there was a big BUT about the collection.

While critics loved the beautiful collection that walked the runway, many of the critics felt as if they’d seen this all before.

The 2016 collection by Cushnie et Ochs featured their “signatures” of body-conscious designs including cutout details, leather jumpsuits, boxy trousers and military style jackets.

The word ‘signature’ in fashion is a great word to hear about a designer, it means that they have a clear point of view regarding their design aesthetic and more importantly so does the rest of world, assuming their aesthetic veers clients in their direction.

Unfortunately in the fashion world “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” will land you in hot water.  Critics tout that Cushnie et Ochs designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have become a ‘one-note’ design duo, and critic’s quotes now shift from “signature look” to “can they do anything else?”.

I personally love this collection, as do their clients, BUT Cushnie et Ochs have not been able to grow, they are sort of stuck in this middle box.  And if they lose fashion press backing, they can slide down fast.

What is required is a leap of faith.  But taking a leap is hard.  And it is often, initially, met with resistance.  But sometimes it can pay off.  No one knows that more than Mary Katrantzou whose currency prints brought her sensation but quickly became a one-note look.

The designer took a leap in 2014 that brought some resistance but she carried through.  Her Spring 2014 collection catapulted her into the big leagues alongside Stella McCartney and Tom Ford.

Mary-Katrantzou-Spring-2014

And now she has her stride.  The Spring 2015 collection is phenomenal.  Her show is a go-to show in London every season.

Mary retains her signature prints but she experiments with textiles, materials and silhouettes.  She uses ALL of this to tell her story, not just the beautiful digitized prints that she loves so much.mary-katrantzou-rtw-fw2011-runway-010_101920134168

Cushnie et Ochs has what it takes to stand alongside Alexander Wang and Prabal Gurung in New York but it is time they take a leap of faith, and evolve.

The Cushnie et Ochs 2016 collection did feature a few new things including the black leather “overalls” bathing suit and the denim cardigan dress that left many wondering if this is a sign that the design duo are ready to explore uncharted waters.

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